Weeding |  |
|
|
|
You don't really want weeds in the garden for the very good reason that they require the same nutrients (food provided by the soil), light and water as you garden plants and so compete with them. By getting rid of weeds you are looking after the plants you have chosen to be in your garden. It is also better to weed on a regular basis as it saves much more time in the long run as they are prevented from producing seeds and becoming established. |
|
|
|
Preventing weeds growing | | Once weeds have become established they are far more difficult to deal with, so the key to saving time is to prevent them growing in the first place. There are a number of ways to achieve this. | • | Use ground covering plants - Plant dense, low-growing plants close together which will cut out light and smother any weeds that do try and grow. | | • | Gravel - spread a 5cm (2") layer of coarse gravel around your plants. | | • | Chipped bark, well rotted manure or compost - use in the same way as gravel with the added benefit that it will eventually rot and be taken into the soil by beneficial creatures where it helps the soil structure and fertility. It will however need adding to every two or three years. | | • | Fabrics - A range of fabrics are now available that allow water through but stop weeds growing up through it. They look best when covered with a mulch of chipped bark though. | | • | Black polythene - This best used on uncultivated ground prior to planting. Old carpet has a similar effect. |
|
|
|
|
Controlling established weeds | | Many weeds can be controlled simply by using a few hand tools. |
|
|
|
Hoeing | | | • | It's best to choose a dry day so that the cut weeds dry up and die quickly. | | • | Use a Dutch hoe to control annual weeds. This allows you to cut through the weeds without damaging your plants roots. | | • | Use a draw hoe for chopping weeds in half. | | • | Use an onion hoe or hand hoe to weed among closely grown plants. |
|
|
|
|
| • | Try to choose a day when the soil is moist. Hold the weed close to the soil, and then pull it out with the roots intact. Shake off the soil and put it on the compost heap. | | • | Make sure you wear gloves and protect your knees with a kneepad. | | • | Do not put any weeds that have set seed on the compost heap, as they will create trouble next year. |
|
|
|
|
Chemical weed-killers | | Chemical weed-killers can be useful particularly where you have any empty patch of weed-infested ground. They are also particularly useful in getting rid of perennial weeds that are deep rooted. They work by destroying or blocking water passages in plant leaves, stems or roots which then prevents growth. They do need using with care though, especially amongst your garden plants as these can be damaged too. |
|
|
|
| • | Always follow the instructions on the packaging and keep them out of reach of children and animals. Wear gloves and wash your hands after use. | | • | If using a sprayer to apply the weed-killer make sure you mark it for weedkiller use only. | | • | Apply in spring and summer for best results. Avoid applying on windy days. | | • | Rain can ruin the effect of many weedkillers so it is best to check the weather forecast first. | | • | Weed-killers are available as gels, liquids, granules and ready to use formulations. | | • | Gels are best painted onto weeds where plants are growing nearby, whereas liquids and granules can be effectively applied to paths, patios, drives and barren patches of ground. |
|
|
|
|
Types of weed | |
|
|
|
Annual weeds | | Although they die within a year annual weeds are very effective at reproducing in their thousands, often over a long period. The seeds can survive for a long time in the soil under extreme conditions and may travel great distances. It is therefore best to get rid of these as soon as they appear and set seed. Common examples include goose grass, chickweed, speedwell, poppies and groundsel.
They are best removed by hoeing and hand weeding.
|
|
|
|
Perennial weeds | | These weeds survive for more than two growing seasons and in some cases many years. The deep and penetrating roots make these a real challenge and unfortunately many will regrow from the smallest segment of root so it is vital to remove or kill the whole plant. Examples include nettles, couch grass. Bindweed and ground elder.
These are best removed by hand weeding or chemical weedkillers. |
|
|
|
Woody weeds | | These include bramble, ivy, elder and thorn, and because they are very deep rooted they can be difficult to remove if left to grow too big.
You should dig them up or use a chemical weedkiller. |
|
|
|
